Threads magazine industry seam allowances pdf download

The little bite indent just catches the fold and the straight stitch runs outside the edge. It looks like hand stitching and will confuse all your friends. Instead of hand tacking anything in place, use the Darning Foot to secure any textured sections; use on the spot, jump to the next place and repeat; on completion, trim threads.

Place thread on the top spool or if necessary on the bobbin and use with cotton, silk, or any other natural fiber. Move the needle to change the seam width.

Second, discover the joys of fabric play. Let your fingers squish and squash, twiddle and fiddle. Anything that has a fold can probably be rolled, pockets can be padded, and excess material can be jiggled, twitched, and tweaked into weird and wonderful shapes. Many of my creations came out of playing and experimenting. Why not look at molded, shaped, and sculpted objects for inspiration? My Tucked Up Circle design came from the underside of a mushroom. Explore other textural crafts — origami — what happens if you do it in fabric?

Maybe there will be raw edges, but Hey! Use the serger or turn under and secure with the Blindstitch. Third, use a fairly firm and slightly stiff material for all your texture work — a good crease makes folding easier and more accurate. Natural fibers will texture; manmade materials are mainly crease resistant. Work with a pale colored, plain, or lightly patterned cloth — it displays the nipping and tucking well. Use of heavily patterned and very dark colors may obscure any textured effect although black chintz can look marvelous.

Try silk, a firm satin, and any other shiny fabric — the sheen enhances the textured appearance. Finally, to be a real expert in the art of fabric manipulation, chill out and smile. If it all goes wrong — stick a button on it or cover any wobbly lines of stitching with ribbon or braid. Does it matter? It might be a great improvement and lots better than the sample you were copying.

Texture deals with light and shadow and a few more bumps and lumps will probably add to its delight. Awaken your creative side. As new products have been developed, we have replaced some of the stitching process with fusibles, adhesives and glues. While the strength and beauty of thread stitched on fabric can never be replaced, there are some products that can make the preparation phase of a project fast and easy.

The latest of these time-saving products is a line of sprays that make basting and pinning a thing of the past. The adhesive begins to deactivate when exposed to air and will completely dissipate within 24 to 48 hours. For machine embroidery work, is used to adhere stabilizer to the garment either before or after hooping. Securing the stabilizer to the fabric before hooping helps prevent accidental stretching and distorting of the fabrics as the garment is hooped.

This is especially important when embroidering knit fabrics. To apply, spray the stabilizer with a light coating of Adhere the stabilizer to the wrong side of the garment in the area to be embroidered.

Gently smooth out any wrinkles taking care to not stretch the garment. In instances where hooping is impractical small areas of a garment such as cuffs and collars, or thick fabrics that are hard to hoop , hoop the stabilizer first and then spray the hooped stabilizer with Place the area to be embroidered over the sprayed area and gently smooth out any wrinkles. Take care to not stretch the fabric as you are placing it on the hooped area.

It does not cause the needle to gum up, and is odorless, colorless, stainless, and spotless. It can be used when a lighter application of temporary adhesive is desired. Use it to hold tissue patterns 16 in place when cutting out a garment. Spray the wrong side of the pattern piece with and let dry for a few minutes.

Patterns can be repositioned as needed. The adhesive begins to dissipate when exposed to air, but can be reapplied several times. It is used by wood hobbyists to hold patterns in place while cutting. The pattern may be removed and used several times. Apply additional after several uses. The adhesive begins to dissipate when exposed to air, and will be completely gone within 24 to 48 hours.

The adhesive is sprayed onto the back of fabric or paper. The adhesive remains permanently affixed to that object. This fabric or paper can then be applied to another surface and removed or repositioned as needed; the adhesive will not transfer onto other surfaces. Since it is acid free, it can be applied to the backs of photographs. The photographs will remain in place until they are removed.

Spray several light coats onto the back of the surface. The more coats, the stronger the bond will be when fused in place. Fabric Shield can be laundered and drycleaned. As with any aerosol container, care should be taken to keep cans from extremely high temperatures. Choose from different outlines and use them to replace existing outlines, add decorative borders and accents, create decorative stitch appliques, and add texture to backgrounds.

Creating Pattern Outlines Selecting Pattern Outlines T he options of preprogrammed Pattern Outlines are available on any level of artista software and can be manipulated as described below.

To use one of the Pattern Outlines, draw any shape using the appropriate tool. Next, select the Outline option at the lower left of the screen; select the Pattern option.

To change the pattern, go to the Object Properties box under Settings. The Outline Stitch tab has the choices divided into 10 categories. Manipulating Pattern Outlines T he easiest way to manipulate a pattern outline is by altering the size. This is done in the Object Properties box. By changing the Size and Spacing it is possible to enlarge or reduce the pattern.

If you are a more visual person, then use the resizing arrows in the Reshape Object view. Another form of pattern outline manipulation is achieved using the diamonds above each segment of the pattern outline. Download the app at ThreadsMagazine. Access is free with a print subscription or Threads Insider online membership. Air Thread Serger The new air threading system makes it effortless to thread your machine. A time-saving feature for tangle-free sewing. Serging has never been so easy!

See p. TIPS 12 Pressing tiny seam allowances, sharps storage, big-eye needles to the rescue, sewing with dental floss, easy Fray Check application. You can save image first, then print it. Also press the seam allowance not yet sewn at the end of both edges. To find out how much fabric you need, simply look down to the next section. If the fabric is 60" wide, you only have to buy 2 yards. Remember to buy extra if you are tall or you have to allow for shrinkage.

It is always better to have a bit extra than be a bit short! You will also need interfacing according to this pattern. Purchase thread to be one shade darker than the background color of the fabric. The salesperson can be a tremendous help in choosing proper fabric and notions. Don't hesitate to ask for help! Pattern Pieces and Pattern Symbols Fabric Placement Some of the symbols on a pattern piece provide instructions on how the pattern piece is to be laid out on the fabric.

Direction is very important because fabric usually has more stretch in one direction than in the other perpendicular direction. The double ended arrow means that is the direction of the grain of fabric it means the arrow will run the direction of least stretch on the fabric. Sometimes, however, this arrow will say "stretch", which means the arrow is to placed in the direction of greatest stretch.

This line should be parallel to the edge of the fabric. This is used when two halves of a piece are identical. If the pattern piece is cut down the center and the piece is placed on a fabric that is doubled over, a finished piece with two identical halves is created.

Sewing Symbols Other symbols assist in lining up pieces that will be stitched together. These marks can either be cut into the fabric, or drawn onto the fabric. Dots are drawn onto the fabric. Notches and dots are used to properly align the fabric pieces that will be stitched together. The broken line represents the stitch line. Cutting Instructions The pattern pieces might contain instructions. A piece might tell you to "cut two" or "cut one".

This refers to the number of pieces you are to cut. Usually "cut two" means two opposite pieces are to be cut. If the fabric is folded, place the pattern piece on top of the folded fabric and cut through both layers of fabric. You will end up with two opposite pieces.

Your fabric lay-out instructions will show this in detail. Altering Instructions A straight line with the term "Shorten or Lengthen Here" means this is the area you can shorten or lengthen without changing overall shape of the garment. For example, to shorten a pant leg, fold the pattern piece so that the 2 lines meet.

Re-draw the outline of the pant leg as needed. A shortened boot cut pant leg is shown on the right. Use our free robe pattern to learn how to create your own robe pattern out of a simple tee shirt pattern. Use our free pajama pattern to learn how to alter a pajama pattern or create your own pajama pattern.

The image on the right is from our free pajama pattern and shows how to enlarge and lengthen the pant leg. The reason is that most patterns come with multiple sizes.

I can trace and cut only my size, without cutting the original pattern. Be sure you have plenty of space to work. A large table is best, because it is at a height that is friendly to backs especially a sewing table, which is higher than a regular table. Laying and cutting on a floor leads to very sore back and leg muscles.

Assemble everything you will need: pattern pieces, pattern instructions for lay-out instruction , pins, scissors and fabric. In laying out your fabric, there are some important concepts to keep in mind. Stretching Fabric Back Into Shape Fold the fabric as shown in your pattern instructions and lay out flat on a cutting surface. If the fabric does not lay in line nicely, it may be a bit stretched out of shape.

If this is the case, you will need to stretch the fabric on the diagonal. Get someone to help you, and stretch the fabric from one corner to the opposite corner, in the direction that needs the adjustment. This should take care of the problem pre-washing the fabric tends to take care of this problem also. The grain generally runs the length of the fabric parallel to the selvages , with the greater stretch running in the opposite direction perpendicular to the selvages.

The selvages are the side edges of the fabric. The distance between the selvages is the width of the fabric, such as 45", 54" or 60". Grain vs. There are directions where you want stretch such as across the back width of a skirt and areas where you want less or no stretch such as the length of the skirt. The pattern pieces will be clearly marked as to what direction they should be laid. Below is a diagram of typical fabric. Please note, however, that the greatest stretch may be opposite of what is shown below.

If you are not sure, grab the fabric in two places, 1" apart. Pull the points apart and measure the length of stretch. Repeat in the opposite direction to see which direction has the greatest stretch. Be sure to place the pattern pieces according to greatest stretch. Fabric Cutting 1.

Positioning and Cutting Pieces 2. Fold your fabric according to lay-out instructions. Lay your pattern pieces in the correct direction. Place pattern pieces on folds where required. Positioning Pattern Pieces. Always position all pieces before cutting any out. This way, you can be sure you understand lay- out and have allowed space for all pieces. Check over the lay-out instruction in the pattern and carefully follow these directions. When you are more experienced, you may have your own ways to lay out pieces; for now I suggest you use the lay-out recommended by the pattern instructions.

Securing Pattern Pieces You need to secure your pattern in place before cutting. You can do this with pins or weights. Pins are more precise, and you do not run the risk of knocking a piece out of place. Therefore, I recommend pins for beginners. Always place pins in the seam allowance. As with pins, scissors are more precise. A rotary cutter is difficult to use around corners, it's easy to overshoot your mark, and they are very sharp not at all appropriate for children.

I definitely recommend scissors until you are experienced. Instead, cut away from the pattern piece. Notches are used to line up pieces when sewing them together.

Marking Pieces There are many different places where you will need to mark your fabric pieces. In marking fabric, you are transferring important information from the pattern piece to the cut fabric, such as where to sew in darts, where to place buttonholes, where to place a zipper, etc.

There are various ways to mark fabric. You need to consider your own preferences, as well as the type of fabric, when you choose your method. Pins Pins can be used to mark places such as start and stop places for sewing and measurements. You must be careful with pins, however, because they can leave tiny holes in our garment. Consider the placement of the pins as well as the type of fabric before choosing this method. Pins are best used only where you will sew a seam line.

Tailor Tacks Tailor tacking uses thread to mark the fabric pieces. The following is an example. The thread can be sewn through the fabric only, or the pattern piece and the fabric. Then cut the thread and pull away the pattern piece. You now have your mark in exactly the right place. It should stay on long enough to be useful not smear or rub off , but should be easily erased with a fabric eraser.

Fabric pencil and fabric marker 4. Tracing Paper and Tracing Wheel The tracing paper is placed between the fabric and pattern piece with the transfer color toward the fabric. Use the wheel to press down on the pattern marking to be transferred.

The color on the paper will rub off onto your fabric. Ready to purchase a new machine? Check our directory of sewing machine retailers. Each make of machine is different, however. You will need to refer to your own sewing machine manual and become familiar with your machine and its parts. Learn to care properly for your machine, and it will take care of you for many years. It has an opening for the needle to pass through, as well as lines that serve as sewing guides.

The needle may be a single hole, used for straight stitching, or an oblong hole, which allows the needle to make stitches that have width such as zig-zag stitches. NOTE: Be careful when using a straight stitch throat plate. A straight stitch throat plate is the best one to use, however, when making a straight stitch regular sewing stitch. It helps prevent the fabric from being pulled down into the machine having a needle that is sharp enough helps prevent this also, although you must use a ball-point needle for knits.

Notice the throat plate on the left has an oblong hole and the one on the right has just one small circular hole. Use the type on the left for stitches with width such as zig-zags and the one on the right for regular, straight stitching.

The two long openings on the outer edges allow the feed dogs to come up an explanation of feed dogs follows. The bobbin is housed under the throat plate. It holds the thread that locks your stitches in place. When you sew a line, the stitches on top come from your spool of thread, while the underside stitches come from the bobbin. Read Bobbin Winding later in this chapter for basic instructions on winding a bobbin.

Also, refer to your own sewing machine manual for information on your sewing machine bobbin. Feed Dogs The photo on the right shows the feed dogs. Feed dogs feed the fabric keep the fabric moving while the machine sews. Never push or pull your fabric. The fabric will be fed through for you. All you have to do is gently guide your fabric.

When sewing through two layers of fabric, it is possible that one layer will be fed at a slightly different rate than the other layer. Although your two layers can be perfectly lined up when you start your stitching, by the time you are at the end of the stitching line, the layers can be "off" one shorter than the other.

This is VERY frustrating. Therefore, two different solutions have been developed. If you are lucky, your machine will have differential feed. This can be engaged or not engaged depending on what you are sewing.

My Pfaff quilting machine has differential feed and it is truly wonderful. Both layers of fabric are fed at the same rate. If your machine does not have differential feed, you can accomplish the same thing by using a walking foot.

It is a special foot that attaches to your machine. A sales person familiar with your type of machine can help you select the right foot for your machine. Presser Feet Presser feet hold down the fabric and help guide it through.

They also serve various special functions. Examples of special feet are the rolled hem foot, which causes the fabric to roll, and the applique foot, which has an opening in the back to allow the bulk of the satin stitch to pass through. Other special feet that are commonly used include the zipper foot and buttonhole foot. Knowing what types are available, and when to use them, can make all the difference in the quality of your work.

These special feet also take a lot of the frustration out of sewing. Find out what type of feet are available for your machine. Special sewing functions can be performed using other specialty feet such as: applique foot, bias binder, pintuck feet, felling foot, cording foot, special hemmers and many more.

Stitch Length and Width Stitch length refers to how long each individual stitch is. Regular 11 - 12 stitches per inch Basting 6 stitches per inch i. Proper stitch length is important and is a first place to start if you do not like the look of your stitching.

For example, a slightly puckered seam in the fine fabric could be caused from too long of a stitch length - the feed dogs are feeding too much fabric through each stitch, making a puckered look.

To correct this, a shorter stitch length should be used also check tension - more on this later. Remember that the higher number of stitches per inch translates to a short, tighter stitch. Stitch width refers to how wide the stitch is. A regular straight stitch has no width, but a zig-zag or decorative stitch can be set to any number of widths. Choice of Needle There are many different sizes of needles available. Also, needles are either sharp, or ball point. Ball point needles are used when sewing knits and sharp needles are for other non-stretch fabrics sharp needles can tear a knit.

Refer to the following table for a general idea, and the Refer to the Thread and Needle chart for more detail. It helps to pin, glue-baste or hand baste the pocket before stitching obviously :.

I need to do a lot of pockets on band jackets…. But really, is there an easier way? Note: In the illustrations, her pocket is hemmed at top, and hem is overlocked and pressed under, but her pocket is not lined. She advocates basting pocket from outside with zig-zag that barely catches pocket edge, then sewing pocket from the inside.

Start at center bottom and attach one side; then repeat for other side. Patricia Moyes says it works best with a curved corner patch, as it is tight work. Currently it only joins the two layers of lining. Talk about a pocket that hangs free! Kathleen, I am wondering if this error in the drawing of the seam formation is causing you to not be able to see how the pocket lining hangs free below where it is joined to the garment and the pocket.

What do you think? When I look at the lower part of the vertical section it seems to me the lining is free. Is that how you read this diagram? To know there is an error implies you understand what the author is talking about. I never got that far so you did better than I did. For me it was GIGO. It really is a very simple way to make a Patch Pocket, it is even easy to match checks from Pocket onto the jacket.

All of the layers, Self and two layers of lining are stitched onto the body at the same time. One single row of top stitching closes all of the seams from view, and bar-tacks hold the top two corners of the pocket and the small bit of raw seam that shows above the lining. It really is an elegant way to make a pocket, I love it! It is also very strong, as there is no cutting into the jacket body.

There is a silent video on You tube, showing how to stitch this, it is fairly clear once You know the basic idea. I think that it was posted by a Chinese worker. There is no speech, nor written words, just the video of the pocket being stitched. When I was teaching night classes, I usually demonstrated this pocket, and I always used a checked fabric, to show how to match the pattern from pocket to jacket body.

Glad you found that video. If you have a membership, you can download the PDF for the complete instructions. This guy also has a great video on making a reversible shirt from double-sided fabric. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Sasha writes: He was very ill in his last years, but he still insisted on going to teach, oxygen cylinder and all.

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